What is Þórsmörk and what makes Þórsmörk different from other Icelandic highland areas?

Þórsmörk, the Valley of Thor, lies within the Katla UNESCO Global Geopark. Three glaciers surround it – Eyjafjallajökull, Tindfjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull – while a trio of rivers (Krossá, Þröngá and Markarfljót) run through it. Perhaps Þórsmörk’s most unique quality is that it is so verdant, crammed with birch trees and rocks shrouded in moss. Þórsmörk in Iceland contrasts spectacularly with other parts of the Highlands. That’s definitely the case with Landmannalaugar, whose stark peaks and colourful geology, not to mention its abundant geothermal activity, couldn’t be more different. Both are a dream for hikers, but for very different reasons. If Þórsmörk sounds like your kind of place, then read on. We’ve put together a guide to this irresistible highland hiking paradise that contains everything you need to know.

How to get to Þórsmörk: can you drive yourself?

In theory, if you’re dead set on venturing to Þórsmörk independently, it’s possible to drive there yourself. However, you’ll need to be a confident driver as the route is a challenging one. You’ll also require a suitable 4x4; the road isn’t suitable for regular cars or smaller SUVs. It should come as no surprise, therefore, that many rental companies choose not to allow their fleet to drive on F-roads; where they do you’ll need specialist insurance. Assuming this hasn’t already put you off, let’s consider what it means in reality to drive to the Þórsmörk nature reserve. You’ll be following route F249, which involves fording the River Krossá. Even if you’ve tackled a river crossing before, you shouldn’t underestimate this one. The Krossá is fast flowing; the water’s deep in places and the bottom is loose gravel. No two crossings are alike and the chances of water damage are high. Without insurance, you could face a huge bill; with it, the danger factor – and even simply the inconvenience of being stranded – means that you need to be pretty determined to consider it. Honestly, why put yourself through the stress when the Highland Bus can take you there? If you’re adamant you want to stop and sightsee on the way, then a super jeep tour is a more expensive option.

When is the best time to visit Þórsmörk?

Like most of the Highlands, unless you are planning on taking a super jeep tour Þórsmörk Iceland is a summer destination. It’s accessed by one of the country’s most challenging F-roads; these mountainous routes are closed throughout the winter months and open only for a brief period in summer. In the case of Þórsmörk, typically you can expect to get up here from June to September. In any case, the verdant nature of the views means this is one part of Iceland that is at its most splendid when the trees are in leaf. Though some parts of the country arguably look even better in winter under snow and ice, Þórsmörk shines brightest in summer. You’re going to want to be able to hike its trails, and that’s not possible off season.

What are the best hiking trails in Þórsmörk?

Walking within the Þórsmörk nature reserve is highly rewarding, especially if the weather’s fine. In this protected area, there’s something truly magical about the juxtaposition of the snow capped peaks and glaciers that lay beyond the valley with the lush vegetation you find within it. There are stellar views at every turn, making Þórsmörk hiking trails an absolute joy. Two of Iceland’s most iconic trails connect here: the multi-day Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls Trails. Choose to do one, or both: you won’t be disappointed. Equally rewarding is to stay within Þórsmörk and do day hikes. For instance, the 12km long Þórsgata Volcano Trail encircles the region and features stunning panoramic views along its entire length. It’s also possible to hike from the Húsadalur valley up to the peak of Valahnúkur Mountain. This out and back path is relatively easy compared to some in the area and you’ll find steps cut into the steepest slopes to make your ascent and descent more straightforward. You’ll only need to allow a couple of hours, making this an option for day trippers. Hiking up onto the Merkurrani Plateau also allows you to capitalise on extraordinary views. In just a few hours, you can be treated to the sight of the icy expanses of Eyjafjallajökull Glacier, the breathtaking Krossá River and the vertiginous volcanic Merkurrani Cliffs. Continue on to admire the River Markarfljót; lush Þórsmörk and the grey tones of its surroundings make for an incredible view. A longer trail, for which you’ll need to allocate about four hours, takes you through the birch forest within the Húsadalur Valley. This time, you’ll climb up to the lower reaches of the Tindfjöll Mountains. At this point you choose to go high or low, following the lofty contours of the Slyppugilshryggur Ridge or descending into the Slyppugil Canyon. Both are extraordinary routes; there’s no bad choice. Most hikers round off this walk by summiting Valahnúkur Mountain. Similarly long with a few challenging stretches is the Tindfjöll Circle hike, which goes big on drama and equally big on jaw-dropping views. From the Tindfjöll Mountains, the trail winds up to the Tindfjallaslétta plateau and hugs the Stangarháls Ridge. It drops down right to the edge of the mighty Krossá River from where you can enjoy a leisurely ramble through birch woodland back through the Húsadalur Valley.

Is the Þórsmörk valley in Iceland suitable for a day trip?

If you want to get a taste of the Icelandic Highlands but can’t spare much time, then you could consider a day trip. Tickets are very affordable, especially given the nature of the route and the need for a modified vehicle helmed by an experienced driver. At 11999 ISK per adult for a single fare from Reykjavik, the Highland Bus represents excellent value for money. It’s cheaper still from Selfoss, Hella or Hvolsvöllur as they’re closer. The schedule of the Highland Bus is designed so that you arrive towards late morning and depart in the afternoon. You wouldn’t be able to tackle any of the longer hikes but there are some shorter walks that will give you the opportunity to admire some of the scenery that’s given Þórsmörk such an enticing reputation. At the beginning and end of the season – from around the beginning of June to the middle of September, this Highland Bus in Iceland leaves the Þórsmörk Básar (Útivist) stop at 3pm, so you’d have a little less than four hours there. Choose the final stop – Þórsmörk Langidalur (Ferðafélag Íslands) – and you’ll have a little over four hours. In the middle, the bus lets passengers on and off at the Volcano Huts in the Húsadalur valley. It’s worth noting that from mid-June to late August, the situation for day trippers gets even better, as there’s an additional departure in each direction. The second bus leaves the Þórsmörk area just after 7pm. It makes for a very long day, as you’d leave Reykjavik’s BSÍ terminal at 7am and wouldn’t return until 11.30pm but the payback is that you achieve around eight hours in this delightful area.

Staying longer

The beauty of Þórsmörk means that many visitors are keen to spend at least a night there, so how does the Highland Bus in Iceland work if you aren’t a day tripper. The answer is pretty much identical – when you go online, you simply book the return leg for a different day, but otherwise the process is the same. Staying overnight in Þórsmörk is possible. Útivist, an Icelandic travel association, manages the Básar huts which are conveniently located close to one of the bus stops. As we mentioned, the Highland Bus also pulls up outside Volcano Huts in the Húsadalur valley, where you can choose from glamping tents, cabins and sheepherders cottages as well as a campsite.
Another thing to bear in mind is that the Highland Bus makes a number of stops between Reykjavik and Þórsmörk. These include Selfoss, Hella and Hvolsvöllur. A separate Highland Bus travels from Reykjavik to Selfoss, Hella and Hvolsvöllur with Skógar as its final destination. This will be of interest to anyone planning to complete the Fimmvörðuháls Hiking Trail. It’s one of the country’s most spectacular walks, connecting Þórsmörk with the coast at Skógar. Most visitors typically take about one or two days to complete. The Highland Bus therefore serves as your Fimmvörðuháls Trail transport at either end of the route.

What to bring

When you come to the Icelandic Highlands, even somewhere that caters well to visitors as Þórsmörk does, you need to prepare to be away from the facilities and services of Iceland’s larger built up areas. It’s vital to be well equipped, both for safety and for comfort. You’ll most likely be up here in summer, but even so the weather can close in and you need to be prepared for that. Dress appropriately for a long-distance hike in an upland area. Layer up so that you stay warm and dry; if the weather is mild you can always carry the spare garments in a day pack. But if the wind is blowing or it starts to rain, you’ll be glad of those extra items of clothing, as well as the hat, gloves and even thermals you weren’t sure you needed to pack. Staying upright on uneven trails might be made easier with poles and at the start of the season when spring is lingering, you might also be grateful for the additional grip provided by crampons or spikes. Again, if you don’t find you need them, they’re not heavy to carry. Decent hiking boots with a thick tread and ankle support are another must, as are the wool socks that cushion your heels and toes. Carry a basic first aid kit, just in case. If you’re overnighting in the area, huts and tents require you to bring a sleeping bag; call ahead if you’re unsure. Pack snacks; carry adequate amounts of water to ensure you stay hydrated. If you plan to dine at the restaurant at Húsadalur, make sure they’re expecting you. You might also choose to self cater, of course.

Þórsmörk awaits

We hope through this article we’ve inspired adventure-seekers and intrepid travellers. This area provides an array of compelling reasons to visit stunning landscapes, utilising legendary trails to access areas of unspoilt beauty and unlock the region’s rich geological history. In a country best known for its monochromatic landscapes, the greenery here provides a welcome yet unexpected element to the scenery. It’s hard to believe that somewhere that feels so remote and distant from built up areas can be accessed by a single, straightforward bus ride, but it does. Iceland’s Highland Bus is a cost-effective answer to the challenge of how to carry enthusiastic visitors up here so that they don’t have to find themselves out of their depth tackling a Krossá river crossing. If you’re a hiker, photographer or simply an adventurous independent traveller looking for something a little different to the ring road during a summer visit, then Þórsmörk in Iceland fits the bill. Reykjavik Excursions’ Highland Bus is the most convenient and reliable form of transport to get you there – so why not jump online and book yourself a ticket?